Kris Van Assche must have been extremely busy of late; as well as showing his own collection on Friday Assche took on the great responsibility of succeeding Hedi Slimane at Dior Homme. Slimane’s ultra-slim silhouette and Rock’n’Roll associations with Pete Doherty pushed menswear to the forefront of fashion. Van Assche’s show was a largely monochrome collection of pleated, baggy trousers, waistcoats and jackets. Taking August Sander’s sombre photographs as inspiration Van Assche nevertheless hinted at humour with tiny bow ties.
His collection for Dior (above) was also a mixed bag, tailoring reigned supreme but gone was the slim silhouette (which was already starting to look a bit dated) to be replaced by pleated tuxedo shirts, Thom Browne style short pants and heavily pleated ’80s style trousers. This first collection was never going to cause as many ripples as Slimane’s later shows but Van Assche has shown quiet potential for the future. see after the jump for images of Van Assche’s show.