I want to like him, but I’m just not sure about Kris Van Assche’s first collection for Dior Homme. What do you think?
Obviously I was sick to death of the stuff Hedi Slimane was sending his models slouching down the catwalk in – same old monotone, same old silhouette – and was definitely as ready for a change as Hedi clearly was. However, I’m not sure Kris has cracked it yet. It seems too different but at the same time not different enough. The aspects I liked, like the lean structured silhouettes, have gone and the aspects I didn’t (the monotones, the flannels) have stayed.
The poor bloke’s in an impossible position – Hedi Slimane totally dominated menswear for the past God knows how long. The Dior Homme silhouette was instantly recognisable, iconic even, and really wearable – a gift for intense lanky boys who’d been underserved by fashion in previous years. It was the antidote to the brash Eurotrash designers and was all smart under-stated sophistication.
So, trying to put that history to one side, and trying to judge it on it’s merits are we feeling it? Thoughts!