Chubby old Alber Elbaz from Lanvin joked that the only thing he could wear in his most recent collection were the ties and the shoes. Well Alber, you’d best get on the Slim Fasts, cos this collection is hot.
Despite Elbaz’s insinuation that it’s his hand behind all of Lanvin’s output, it’s no secret that Lucas Ossendrijver is now in the employ of the age old Paris fashion house and his tenure coincided with a fresh new direction for the menswear. Iconography is the language fashion understands and Ossendrijver seems to be a fluent speaker. For the current season, he has developed an instantly recognisable silhouette which might just take over from where Hedi Slimane left off at Dior Homme. The silhouette is based on rounded shoulders, high waists and narrow legs. Jackets had a fullness around the chest and were cropped quite short whereas coats led to an even fuller skirt. There was more than the fair share of flounce around the neck and nearly everything was shown with big domed baseball capes.
It’s the colour palette and the fabrics however, which really excite me. There’s a beautiful range of earth tones and the occasional shock of gold or salmon pink. They’ve used soft wool crepes, knits and shiny fabrics which flounce and float down the catwalk like flags in the wind.
Not content with this triumph, the Lanvin dream team have switched it all up for next season. I just hope Lucas (and Alber) don’t exhaust their creative juices and can keep the fresh looks coming.