As we walked into the On|Off exhibition I had a ‘I want that boat’ Napoleon Dynamite moment looking at Rozalb de Mura’s designs. I especially lusted after a pleated sleeve tunic in a gorgeous shade of grey and on the catwalk the menswear was equally impressive.
Rozalb de Mura is the name of a fictional baron thought up by the design team which is a brilliantly Martin Margiela touch. Designer Olah Gyarfas has been working in his native Romania for the last two years on the de Mura label.
Back to the clothes, the neutral colours and straightforward fabrics belie their simplicity. Crisp gathers, intricate origami folds on the back of a tailored jacket and ballooned trousers all sound a lot more gimmicky than the actual garments would have you believe. I’m keeping my eyes on Gyarfas’ progression, along with fellow On|Off Presents catwalkmate Mark Fast he is definitely one to watch.
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