Folk’s winter range has been arriving online in the past week and with the t-shirts and a couple of shirts from the collection dropping first. Folk make awesome t-shirts and all in the collection are worth a look, but this cut and sew t-shirt is the current stand out for me. You can get them at Oki-Ni for £60
Archive for the ‘Clothing’ Category
Since Kris Van Assche took over the creative direction at Dior Homme he has been rethinking the silhouette which came to define the latter part of the noughties. Assche’s predecessor Hedi Slimane made the rock n’ roll look work again, collaborating with musicians in campaigns, but achieved it through tailoring. A Dior skinny suit used to be one of the things I dreamed of owning, but now, with the high street producing skinnier than thou suits, it all seems to be saturated and the look simply has to end.
Dior Homme SS/09 Campaign.
The shift has been happening for the past couple of seasons and following in the footsteps of women’s fashion, men’s versions of the peg and harem trousers have given hope that there is life after skinny jeans doesn’t involve bootcut.
Well the A/W for Dior Homme still sees the same slim tailoring, but this time it’s the relaxed trousers with oversized trenches that steal the show. Colette describes the collection as a ‘return in the quintessence’ and the woolen trousers pictured above are a highlight of the first pieces of the collection to arrive on the website.
The new 1971 collection from Reiss features this fawn coloured merino cardigan. The cowl neck signifies an evolution of the brand since it launched the 1971 collection last year with less traditional silhouettes still with the same sophisticated feel of Reiss which bridges the gap between designer and high street perfectly and has a price tag of £89.
Whilst browsing through the New In on the ASOS website, alongside generally stylish garments I spotted the dreaded slogan t-shirt. Designed to show you have a sense of humour, it does the exact opposite as people who wear them generally are intensely boring or weird. The offending t-shirt which you can see below, features the phrase ‘I’m so good I scream my own name during sex’. You need to be in a happy, long term relationship where your partner has accepted your character faults to be able to get away with this t-shirt.
The reason that I wanted to write this post is that although tragic, some are actually hilarious (not to wear, just to look at) and if you have your favorites please post them in the comments. Without a doubt my favorite was not seen by me first hand, instead I got told by my friend who was working at Glastonbury alongside a balding, middle aged man with a ponytail who wore a t-shirt saying “If you think my attitude stinks, you should smell my fingers”. Actually disgusting.
Fast becoming a fixture in every major city in the U.K. the company’s popularity within these shores does seem to be increasing. Once a staple store for the hipster, you can’t go far without seeing a bit of lace or salt n’ pepper nowadays. Despite the apparent increase in popularity on these shores, a recent article in the Guardian suggested that the company is in danger of going under, reporting an $18 million dollar loss in the first quarter of the year.
This could maybe be explained by the brand simply falling out of fashion, but there are several other reasons I could think of. First of all is the evidence as to how the company is run. Emphasis on looks rather than skill are backed up by several current and former employees on Gawker. One states:
“Throughout my years there, I was repeatedly forced to deal with unprofessional, and unqualified corporate employees. There’s no way that these 19 year old girls had the foggiest idea how to manage entire districts of retail stores.”
Dov Charney, the man who owns the company seems a man of complete contradiction. Whilst on the one hand marketing the company as a brand which embraces equality with their ‘Legalise Gay’ and ‘Legalise L.A.’ campaigns fighting for gay marriage and an immigration amnesty respectively, he judges on an aesthetic level. Mr Charney has his ideal and is willing to employ and sack based on looks. This isn’t surprising for a man who was once quoted as saying
“You know, there are some of us that love sluts. You know…it could be also be an endearing term.”
I cannot be alone in walking into an AmApp and not enjoying the sales assistant’s icy demeanor. Before all of the guidelines for the appearance of employees got published on the internet I just thought they should loosen up, but now when you here of the stringent policies, it’s not so surprising they appear to have no job satisfaction. If you want to read the full guidelines you can find them here, but some highlights include making sure you take not wearing much make-up ‘very seriously’ and even advising against blow-drying hair because it could ’cause heat damage’.
Of course, American Apparel have released a statement denying that there is any wrong doing on their part and that “American Apparel does not hire or retain applicants based on beauty” and seeing as none of the sources are named in the articles claiming all these wrong doings (which is understandable) you can maybe say that they have been exaggerated. But I doubt it.
One thing that is accepted by everyone is that the man running the company seems to want to control every aspect of the company and feels like aesthetics will equal sales. What he hasn’t accounted for is that American Apparel is incredibly boring. And it has been for the last year.
Ad campaigns featuring Sasha Grey or some unknown 18 year old aren’t shocking anymore, even if the UK’s advertising watchdog seems to think so. The high street has caught up with the leggings and lace which formed the basis of it’s identity in the past few years. And that’s just the womenswear. I was in the shiny new store in Leeds the other day, with one rather large floor dedicated to the men, and it dawned on me that I didn’t need anything from the store. Once you’ve got your couple of hoodies, a few basic t-shirts, why would you buy anything else? Their poor attempt to go preppy with some corduroy and nautical knits doesn’t inspire you to part with your cash for this overpriced apparel.
AmApp will forever be associated with hipsters and Vice. Now, with the brand deserting them and them deserting the brand it won’t be long before Dov and his ideals go under. On one last note though, they are the best hoodies out there.
Burberry Prorsum have collaborated with Colette to produce this limited hooded canvas parka. Having collaborated on a women’s trench this summer which proved to be a bestseller, this style should sell very fast. Available at Colette.
The first pieces of the A/W range from Alexander McQueen has arrived at Colette. Alongside some beautiful nautically engraved boots and graphic print t-shirts was this duffle coat. The duffles on this woolen coat feature the same boat that is engraved on the boots. A wonderful subtle touch of craftmanship, even though it’s the height of summer, this coat will sell fast.
The first drop of the Autumn Winter installment of Rick Owens’ fantastic collections has become available to purchase from Oki-Ni. Featuring now classic Rick Owens silhouettes such as long-line tops biker leathers and drop crotch trousers the first drop is his casual offerings. There is so much left to come as you can see from the ‘Gleam’ show.
End Clothing have previewed the upcoming Barbour collaboration with Tokihito Yoshida. In the third season of the collab, the formula of delving into the Barbour archives and changing silhouettes and incorporating modern design in seen again. The collection will feature 11 styles and is due to launch this month. View five of the designs and a fuller description at End Clothing.
These t-shirts available at Luisaviaroma by Gorgeous take rock items and give them a morbid makeover. Both Bowie and Gene Simmons get the treatment and the t-shirts are %100 organic and given a worn vintage effect.
You can order the Burberry Prorsum outerwear and accessories from the Burberry website. The show was brilliant and you can watch it on the site too. What stood out for the fashion blogs of the world was the use of studs and Brandish is no exception. Bringing a bit of rock n’ roll to country heritage, a lot of leather was used and the sleeveless biker jackets are as beautiful as I’ve seen. Christopher Bailey has done it again.
With many online boutiques starting there summer sales this week, I thought a pick from a couple wouldn’t go amiss. Oki-Ni have a huge sale on and it really is the chance to pick up something beautiful and rare at a bargain price.
Shorts by Pendleton x Opening Ceremony
The first pick is these Pendleton x Opening Ceremony shorts. Such a wonderful collaboration teaming American Heritage with urban pieces, these shorts are one of the only pieces in the range with checks instead of Navajo print and it works perfectly.
Trousers by Acne
These Acne Pitched Posh Trousers are a slightly different shape from just a tapered leg, with a balloon shape giving the trousers a very slim ankle but a relaxed fit throughout the rest of the trouser. Made from 56% linen and 44% cotton these are a light trouser for the summer and would look great turned up with some pastel brogues for a smart but forward look.
Leather Jacket by Chronicles Of Never
This unstructured crumple effect leather has the edges left raw for an ‘organic effect’ and I have to say it works beautifully. The unstructured silhouette works well with a skinny bottom half and it’s been styled well with a longer length t-shirt underneath.
Although responsible for many crimes in fashion, Topman do come out with a few gems season to season. This is the first fisherman’s jacket I’ve seen at a high street price and considering you’ll pay upwards of £90 for the next cheapest it’s a good deal. You can pick it up for £36 at Topman.
I don’t know if it’s because I have mad nostalgia for winter during the summer months (winter clothes are blatantly better for men) but the shirt which has stood out for me this summer has what appears to be snowflakes on it. The nordic print on this chambray shirt has a definite vintage element, and when worn in a size up from usual with some slim leg beige chinos, it would provide a light and easy summer look, even if it has a winter theme. Love it. You can get it at All Saints.