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Nigel Cabourn AW10 At End Clothing.

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cabourne.jpgThe latest Nigel Cobourn collection has arrived at End Clothing and you can find a nice feature on the collection on their blog. The post chronicles the inspiration behind the collection which has highlights including the Antarctic Parka and the Camera Jacket.

Why Would You Want To Shop At American Apparel?

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AmericanApparel_00.jpegFast becoming a fixture in every major city in the U.K. the company's popularity within these shores does seem to be increasing. Once a staple store for the hipster, you can't go far without seeing a bit of lace or salt n' pepper nowadays. Despite the apparent increase in popularity on these shores, a recent article in the Guardian suggested that the company is in danger of going under, reporting an $18 million dollar loss in the first quarter of the year. This could maybe be explained by the brand simply falling out of fashion, but there are several other reasons I could think of. First of all is the evidence as to how the company is run. Emphasis on looks rather than skill are backed up by several current and former employees on Gawker. One states:

"Throughout my years there, I was repeatedly forced to deal with unprofessional, and unqualified corporate employees. There's no way that these 19 year old girls had the foggiest idea how to manage entire districts of retail stores."

Dov Charney, the man who owns the company seems a man of complete contradiction. Whilst on the one hand marketing the company as a brand which embraces equality with their 'Legalise Gay' and 'Legalise L.A.' campaigns fighting for gay marriage and an immigration amnesty respectively, he judges on an aesthetic level. Mr Charney has his ideal and is willing to employ and sack based on looks. This isn't surprising for a man who was once quoted as saying

"You know, there are some of us that love sluts. You know...it could be also be an endearing term."

I cannot be alone in walking into an AmApp and not enjoying the sales assistant's icy demeanor. Before all of the guidelines for the appearance of employees got published on the internet I just thought they should loosen up, but now when you here of the stringent policies, it's not so surprising they appear to have no job satisfaction. If you want to read the full guidelines you can find them here, but some highlights include making sure you take not wearing much make-up 'very seriously' and even advising against blow-drying hair because it could 'cause heat damage'.

Of course, American Apparel have released a statement denying that there is any wrong doing on their part and that "American Apparel does not hire or retain applicants based on beauty" and seeing as none of the sources are named in the articles claiming all these wrong doings (which is understandable) you can maybe say that they have been exaggerated. But I doubt it.

One thing that is accepted by everyone is that the man running the company seems to want to control every aspect of the company and feels like aesthetics will equal sales. What he hasn't accounted for is that American Apparel is incredibly boring. And it has been for the last year.

Ad campaigns featuring Sasha Grey or some unknown 18 year old aren't shocking anymore, even if the UK's advertising watchdog seems to think so. The high street has caught up with the leggings and lace which formed the basis of it's identity in the past few years. And that's just the womenswear. I was in the shiny new store in Leeds the other day, with one rather large floor dedicated to the men, and it dawned on me that I didn't need anything from the store. Once you've got your couple of hoodies, a few basic t-shirts, why would you buy anything else? Their poor attempt to go preppy with some corduroy and nautical knits doesn't inspire you to part with your cash for this overpriced apparel.

AmApp will forever be associated with hipsters and Vice. Now, with the brand deserting them and them deserting the brand it won't be long before Dov and his ideals go under. On one last note though, they are the best hoodies out there.

Rick Owens A/W At Oki-Ni.

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rickowensgleam.jpgThe first drop of the Autumn Winter installment of Rick Owens' fantastic collections has become available to purchase from Oki-Ni. Featuring now classic Rick Owens silhouettes such as long-line tops biker leathers and drop crotch trousers the first drop is his casual offerings. There is so much left to come as you can see from the 'Gleam' show.

Order Burberry Prorsum SS/11 Online.

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burberry11.jpgYou can order the Burberry Prorsum outerwear and accessories from the Burberry website. The show was brilliant and you can watch it on the site too. What stood out for the fashion blogs of the world was the use of studs and Brandish is no exception. Bringing a bit of rock n' roll to country heritage, a lot of leather was used and the sleeveless biker jackets are as beautiful as I've seen. Christopher Bailey has done it again.

RIP Alexander McQueen

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Alex.jpg

It's been an afternoon of shock and sorrow as the news that Alexander McQueen has been found dead at at an address in Green Street, Central London filters through the grapevine.

His death is not being treated as suspicious.

The British fashion designer, known for his outrageous and extraordinary designs, and who won the British Designer of the Year four times between 1996 and 2003, was just 40 years old.

On 3 February, McQueen wrote on his Twitter page that his mother Joyce had passed away the day before, adding: "RIP mumxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx."

Four days later he wrote that he had had an "awful week" but said "friends have been great", adding: "now i have to some how pull myself together".

His family said in a statement: 'On behalf of Lee McQueen's family, Alexander McQueen today announces the tragic news that Lee McQueen, the founder and designer of the Alexander McQueen brand has been found dead at his home. At this stage it is inappropriate to comment on this tragic news beyond saying that we are devastated and are sharing a sense of shock and grief with Lee's family.'

Our sympathy goes out to his family.

Lusting after McQueen S/S10: time machine, please?

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alexander-mcqueen-spring-2010-sneaker-02-405x540.jpgIt seems in fashion we always want to be at the next destination, now. So it is that we haven't even hit August yet and some of us are already thinking ahead to what to wear in the fall. Of course, the fact that collections are shown out of sync with actual seasons doesn't help. An extreme example I'm faced with is wanting ALL of the McQueen shoe collection from S/S10 right now.

Selectism.com have been giving sneak previews of the McQueen S/S10 shoe collection, when THOSE paint splattered lovelies, will apparently also be available as trainers. Picking up on the folk-art patchwork and paint splattering seen in his recent film-presentation-as-show in Milan, the trainers seen here feature both of these themes as gorgeous detailing. Patience is, I guess, a virtue but in the wicked world of fashion it is sometimes sorely tested.

Source: Selectism.com

Alexander McQueen Menswear SS 10

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Alexander McQueen's menswear collections get more and more interesting by the season. This latest show was a clear departure in mood from his last show, 'The Queensberry Rules'.

There was still a menacing undercurrent, with vibes of tortured artist coming through, but the overall atmosphere was that of a more feminine creativity. McQueen's traditional rustic tailoring the look reminded me of some of the Italian workmen that the Sartorialist sometimes snaps.

Onto the gushing, the patchwork shirt and jacket are utterly gorgeous, and regardless of being a woman I want! Similarly the paint effect items moves the digital print trend forwards and the paint-spattered pieces deserve to become a fully-fledged DIY blogger trend.

Best worn: When (pretending) to paint the front room of your Milan apartment.

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From our womenswear blog, Catwalk Queen...

As tributes for Michael Jackson continue to pour in, Sir Paul Smith made the ultimate gesture to the late King of Pop during his closing menswear show in Paris yesterday. The British designer danced his way down the catwalk to Jackson's iconic "Thriller," together with his light-footed models. It was a happy and celebratory moment as the audience clapped and bopped along. Catch sight of grey-haired Paul getting down to MJ by clicking play on the video above - fun!

[via Isaac Likes]

Lets get some shoes: Pantofola d'Oro

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Pantofola.jpgProving that shoe obsession isn't just a girl thing, a recent Twitter debate with fellow shoe lovers on designated #shoesday (every Tuesday for the uninitiated) led me to that rare thing, a new shoe brand.

With a history steeped in the dual Italian loves of football and shoes, the Pantofola d'Oro brand includes a range of luxury sports shoes, the most interesting to me being the Cereço line. Taking the correspondent shoe a step further, the Cereço range features a half-and-half construction of distressed canvas and luxury 'only the Italians' leathers. Including crododile skin! Where to find these beauties? So far, the only UK-focused retailer I can find is online store The Corner, who include an example of the Cereço line in their range at £118. With shoes like these you can step out like an old-school Italian footballer and fell those foam rubber Nike-lovers without even moving.

Pantofola d'Oro site

Pantofola d'Oro on The Corner

Milan Prada Men's SS10 Catwalk Show

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Working within the confines of the grey suit Miuccia Prada played around with masculine conventions. Slashed shorts and sleeves nodded to a violent outburst against formalwear. Shoulders are very much the focus, even without jackets they were shown off in tank tops and sleeveless cardigans. Textured tops and greyscale prints conveyed the feel of newsprint.

This isn't the first catwalk show where we've seen sheer tailoring, it looks like SS10 will see lots of sharp, sheer menswear pieces on the high street.


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Missoni Men's SS10 Catwalk Show

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A retro silhouette dominated the Missoni collection, it was all cuffed trousers and shirts teamed with trenches and faded denims.

Patchwork knits and David Byrne-esque tailoring carried on the throwback theme. Hints of safariwear came through in the muted palette of washed-out neutrals hinted and sherbet accents provided a delicate burst of colour.

Best worn: while being a foreign correspondent in the Sahara.

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[Images: Coutorture]

More A/W09 Looks: Steven Alan

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Steven_Alan_AW09.jpgFollowing Isabelle's lead in previewing some A/W looks, here is another collection of relaxed and very wearable clothes, this time from US designer Steven Alan. Whilst not a household name here in the UK (though he has been stocked at places like Liberty) it would be unusual for a well-dressed New Yorker to not have at least one SA piece in their wardrobe.

Loved for his spin on American classics, Mr Alan treads the line between formal and a slightly crumpled. I love the tweeds in this collection, especially the pleated pants and whilst I'm not sure how much plaid I'll be wearing this Autumn, dressed up with a tie or interesting layers it can be excused. Great styling, too - love those battered workboots!

See more of the A/W lookbook courtesy of A Continuous Lean. Or look here If you're intrigued as to what Steven Alan offers for the current Spring season.

Source: Steven Alan AW09 Lookbook, A Continuous Lean

Thumbnail image for Picture 2.pngTopman is great for its designer collaborations and its 'Priceless' range, designed by celebrated fashion designer and tailor Antony Price, delivers every season. The range has just gone up on Topman.com and with its wonderful waistcoats, brilliant blazers and perfectly pleated pants (in the American sense of the word,) I can't wait to get a piece of the action! The look on the left is almost exactly what I outlined in my 'Will's Summer Wants' piece only last month and the peach colour is perfect for summer.

Other standout pieces include the taffeta suits in purple and green as well as the 'ice grey chintz' suit. Most jackets are around £140 with trousers at £60. Why not enlighten us as to what you plan to invest in by chatting to us on Facebook?

P.S- The 'Swim Skinny' suit is a fash-gasm waiting to happen!

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We featured a sneak peek of the 3sixteen A/W collection recently, and they're back, this time Johan Lam, one of the 3sixteen designers, answered our questions about his sartorial summer.

What are you going to be wearing this summer? Any new trends/pieces that you're going to be cracking out?
It gets pretty hot in LA during the summer, so my uniform these next few months will be Quoddy boat shoes on my feet, seersucker button ups and solid colored v-necks on top, and a combination of cuffed denim or chino's, cropped khaki's, and knee high shorts on bottom. Ankles out!

Nicola Formichetti's blog is a haven for fashion-friendlies worldwide. From Japanese karaoke to Lady Gaga in the dressing room via iD and plenty of Hedi Slimane, this blog is always full of intimate shots and fashion-star exclusives. Nicola recently featured images from his latest shoot with Slimane for Hedi Slimane.com. The shoot, entitled 'California Teens,' includes only two models but shows a huge variety of sets and looks including dog heads with Swarovski eyes and Rodarte worn as a balaclava.

See the shoot in this gallery below!

(Images: Nicola Formichetti)

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