The delicate interplay between the different colours in the Filippa K pre-Fall collection really make it. A brick shirt, cornflower trousers and a pale dove bow tie, the colours are bright but slightly faded suggesting that high summer haze and intense heat. We particularly love the pleated trousers, rolled up they make looking smart a doddle.
Posts Tagged ‘09’
The standout show at Pitti Uomo was, in my mind, Alexander McQueen’s “The McQueensberry Rules”. Where most Milan designers literally translated the gloom of the economic crisis McQueen added a murderous glint to the proceedings with aristocratic eleagance and a glossy nostalgia for a pre-Thatcherite Britain.
Sending models down the catwalk with fingerless gloves, silver-topped canes and darkened, bloodshot eyes it seemed that McQueen had gone the safe route of pairing outlandish styling with conventional clothing, but on closer inspection everything about this collection gave off a menacing whiff.
Referencing some of the most aggressive or manic male archetypes everyone from the majestic to the deranged got a look in. Skinheads’ oxblood 10 hole DMs, teddy boys’ draped jackets combined with Jack the Ripper menace and Clockwork Orange swagger for a collection that was admittedly theatrical but anchored by impeccable tailoring. Trousers were tight, and a strong upper half was emphasised with sharp suit jackets, thick coats and beefy woollens. Chainmail vests, butcher’s aprons and boxing gloves alluded to traditional facets of men in the workplace in a proudly aggressive and vital assertion of masculinity.
Jump through to watch an impressive video of the show, with thunderous music and songs by the Specials and the Stranglers, you can watch part two here.
[Image: Olycom SPA/Rex Features]
When most of the fashion world is retreating to the relative safety of preppy, classic looks Galliano’s Paris menswear show last week was a riot of colour and you could tell he certainly wasn’t thinking of the credit crunch.
Drinks cans, colourful afros and shimmering lipcolours accompanied the fanciful clothes which included day-glo sporrans, newsprint tailored blazers and t-shirt featuring pop art images of Galliano himself. See after the jump for backstage images from the collection.
[Images: Rex Features ]
The New York Times are going gaga for Sergio Lo Re, who made an appearance at the Vivienne Westwood show this week.
His looks are a heady mix of chubby Italian kid and sleazy lothario which isn’t too much of a hit with the rest of the fashion team but I think he’s cute.
Lo Re might be a little unconventional looking, but Yohji Yamamoto took things a step further in Paris yesterday by picking a model who is a bona fide ghost. Admittedly close up (click on the thumbnail) he doesn’t look that ghostly but from far away he is definitely a member of the undead.