Alexander McQueen Menswear SS 10

Alexander McQueen‘s menswear collections get more and more interesting by the season. This latest show was a clear departure in mood from his last show, ‘The Queensberry Rules’.

There was still a menacing undercurrent, with vibes of tortured artist coming through, but the overall atmosphere was that of a more feminine creativity. McQueen’s traditional rustic tailoring the look reminded me of some of the Italian workmen that the Sartorialist sometimes snaps.

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Paris Menswear: Lanvin SS10 Catwalk Show

You can rely on Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver to deliver a great collection and they did. This collection for Lanvin was typically elegant affair, with the très chic suits and kimono-style jackets. Irreverent touches like trousers and suits made from tie silk reinforce Elbaz’s gentle sense of humour and sandals worn with socks gave a geeky twist to the look.

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Paris Menswear SS 2010: Paul Smith and models dance to “Thriller” during finale

From our womenswear blog, Catwalk Queen

As tributes for Michael Jackson continue to pour in, Sir Paul Smith made the ultimate gesture to the late King of Pop during his closing menswear show in Paris yesterday…

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Kimberley FosterParis Menswear SS 2010: Paul Smith and models dance to “Thriller” during finale

Milan Prada Men’s SS10 Catwalk Show

Working within the confines of the grey suit Miuccia Prada played around with masculine conventions. Slashed shorts and sleeves nodded to a violent outburst against formalwear. Shoulders are very much the focus, even without jackets they were shown off in tank tops and sleeveless cardigans. Textured tops and greyscale prints conveyed the feel of newsprint.

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Missoni Men’s SS10 Catwalk Show

A retro silhouette dominated the Missoni collection, it was all cuffed trousers and shirts teamed with trenches and faded denims.

Patchwork knits and David Byrne-esque tailoring carried on the throwback theme. Hints of safariwear came through in the muted palette of washed-out neutrals hinted and sherbet accents provided a delicate burst of colour.

Best worn: while being a foreign correspondent in the Sahara.

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Menswear: Jill Sander catwalk show SS10

Clean, clean, clean. The Jil Sander show featured neat boys with bowl cuts in pale summer colours and dark, sharp suits.

Shoulders are wide, fabrics are sheer and there is only the merest hint of print in a few drawn-on pieces. Raf Simons focused on details, but they were never bitty, things like pockets visible through shirts, short shorts and racer back singlets all added definition to this simple collection.

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Womenswear gets its cues from Menswear

Chances are if you’re a Brandish reader then you’re already well aware of the importance of menswear, but today Jean Schneides in WWD did some catwalk investigating and concluded that you need to keep one on the menswear collections at all times, if you want a preview of what the womenswear collections will look like a few weeks or months later.

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New York Fashion Week: Marc by Marc Jacobs menswear

Piece by piece Marc by Marc Jacobs‘ menswear was nothing spectacularly new but the way he put it together gave it a fresh feel.

The cobbled together chic was reminiscent of his standout womenswear show last season, proving Will’s point that women’s trends often trickle down into menswear a season or two later.

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Yay or Nay: Headwear at Duckie Brown

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As we move to New York with our menswear coverage, the entire Brandish team has begun searching the shows for particular looks, gossip and moments that have caught our attention. And if there is one designer who has so far got people talking, it would have to be Duckie Brown. This label, designed by Steven Cox and Daniel Silver, has been trend-setting in previous seasons and over the last eight years it has definitely become one to watch for editors and writers alike.

So, with that said, what do you think of the label’s latest headwear designs. Loud, outrageous and not just a bit odd, would you be willing to rock this monumental millinery?

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Will ReidYay or Nay: Headwear at Duckie Brown

Paris Menswear shows: Hermés, Dries Van Noten and Raf Simons

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Part one of our Paris Menswear show round up, and both Hermés and Raf Simons wowed but for different reasons, check after the jump to see a short clip of the Raf Simons vid complete with rotating mirrors and you’ll see why the fash pack went mad for this one.

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Alexander McQueen menswear show at Pitti Uomo, Milan

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The standout show at Pitti Uomo was, in my mind, Alexander McQueen’s “The McQueensberry Rules”. Where most Milan designers literally translated the gloom of the economic crisis McQueen added a murderous glint to the proceedings with aristocratic eleagance and a glossy nostalgia for a pre-Thatcherite Britain.

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adminAlexander McQueen menswear show at Pitti Uomo, Milan

Will’s Christmas Outfit Picks: Argyle Jumper from Gap

This outfit is based around an Argyle jumper from Gap and with argyle being one of the key trends of this season (it was featured on the catwalks of Dolce & Gabbana as well as Thom Browne,) the jumper is a perfect foundation for a great Christmas look.

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Will ReidWill’s Christmas Outfit Picks: Argyle Jumper from Gap

On|Off Presents: Rozalb de Mura gallery

As we walked into the On|Off exhibition I had a ‘I want that boat’ Napoleon Dynamite moment looking at Rozalb de Mura’s designs. I especially lusted after a pleated sleeve tunic in a gorgeous shade of grey and on the catwalk the menswear was equally impressive.

Rozalb de Mura
is the name of a fictional baron thought up by the design team which is a brilliantly Martin Margiela touch. Designer Olah Gyarfas has been working in his native Romania for the last two years on the de Mura label.

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Brandish Feature: Drop-Crotch Demo

Drop-crotch jeans have been dubbed the ‘future of denim’ and ‘the next skinny jean.’ I am an unbelievable skinny devotee (yes, I am scarred after wearing them in Summer-heat London and not even joking) and for this reason, I decided to road-test an exclusive pre-production sample pair from Trousers London.

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Will ReidBrandish Feature: Drop-Crotch Demo

A Vintage Find: My Retro Sunnies from Rokit

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I’m currently down in London, lapping up the (dubious) sunshine and attempting to dress in a way befitting of the cramped, and quite frankly grumpy, tube passengers. Turns out their not too pleased about being next to someone wearing a blazer with Margiela-esque shoulderpads. Basically, the heat is ridiculous and so yesterday I wondered into Convent Garden and bought some vintage sunglasses at Rokit.

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Will ReidA Vintage Find: My Retro Sunnies from Rokit