It seems in fashion we always want to be at the next destination, now. So it is that we haven’t even hit August yet and some of us are already thinking ahead to what to wear in the fall. Of course, the fact that collections are shown out of sync with actual seasons doesn’t help. An extreme example I’m faced with is wanting ALL of the McQueen shoe collection from S/S10 right now.
Selectism.com have been giving sneak previews of the McQueen S/S10 shoe collection, when THOSE paint splattered lovelies, will apparently also be available as trainers. Picking up on the folk-art patchwork and paint splattering seen in his recent film-presentation-as-show in Milan, the trainers seen here feature both of these themes as gorgeous detailing. Patience is, I guess, a virtue but in the wicked world of fashion it is sometimes sorely tested.
Working within the confines of the grey suit Miuccia Prada played around with masculine conventions. Slashed shorts and sleeves nodded to a violent outburst against formalwear. Shoulders are very much the focus, even without jackets they were shown off in tank tops and sleeveless cardigans. Textured tops and greyscale prints conveyed the feel of newsprint.
This isn’t the first catwalk show where we’ve seen sheer tailoring, it looks like SS10 will see lots of sharp, sheer menswear pieces on the high street.
A retro silhouette dominated the Missoni collection, it was all cuffed trousers and shirts teamed with trenches and faded denims.
Patchwork knits and David Byrne-esque tailoring carried on the throwback theme. Hints of safariwear came through in the muted palette of washed-out neutrals hinted and sherbet accents provided a delicate burst of colour.
Best worn: while being a foreign correspondent in the Sahara.
Russell Brand was pictured today alongside protesters against the G20 summit outside the Bank of England the City of London. He told press: “I always come to these kind of things, I’m very interested. I am interested in learning and interested in why these people have come to this. I wonder what alternatives there are and I think it makes people cogent of them. I think it’s also very beautiful,” That’s a wonderful sentiment, but I just wish he’d get rid of the McQueen skull scarf! Jump through to see who else was out and about today.
It’s a mystery why only 32 people are following Charlie Porter on Twitter when his updates are full of exciting and amusing little snippets from the menswear shows. The Fantastic Man deputy editor has been LOL-ing it up at the catwalks and is relaying all the best bits to us. Witness:
Comme des garcons show hats all archive stephen jones, a preview of his v&a show yay! He’s packing them up safe now
Ohgod last night’s planned 9pm exit from YSL ended up being 3am ohLORD
and could this be a Gavin & Stacey reference…???
Milan needs to know who’s nominated, who’s favourite to go, what’s happening, what’s occuring?
Whether these will stay as exciting when he returns or go a little something like this:
Heating broken again British Gas FAIL
remains to be seen, but for now get onto Twitter and check out his updates!
Agreed, the camel coat in the foreground is very stylish and wonderfully tailored, but for me, this picture is all about the background.
Look at the slim-fit trousers, the chunky but not bulky coat and the cutaway collar. The piece de resistance for this ensemble is the colourful paisley scarf, no generic stripy confections for this man! The rich colours warm up the dark coat and add a playfulness to what is a quite a sober look. Get down your local charity shop or retro store and pick up a fancy, dandy, colourful scarf to liven up your winter outfits.
Alice Olins of The Times newspaper has just released a quick summary of the major menswear shows so far at Milan’s Menswear Fashion Week and with insider details and little snippets of useful information, her reports are a great read.
Olins reviews Burberry, D&G, Gucci, McQueen, Cavalli, Armani and Prada as well as including some hints as to where fashion is going and just enough backstage bitching! Follow this link now!
Part two in our Milan menswear rundown, this time Versace, Prada and Marni get the Isabelle patented Photoshop Mad Skillz® treatment, click to enlarge.
Let us know who your favourite was, or if you’re waiting for Paris before you make any decisions. Speaking of which, the Paris shows kicked off yesterday so stay tuned for more catwalk news from Brandish.
This the first in our Milan Menswear rundown, it’s not exactly cut out and keep, but you can keep up to date with the trends at a glance. Click on the image to see in its full-size glory. Alexander McQueen was definitely my favourite but here is the lowdown from some of the other designers, which one is your fave? Stay tuned for part two, and check out the Jil Sander catwalk vid after the jump.
The standout show at Pitti Uomo was, in my mind, Alexander McQueen’s “The McQueensberry Rules”. Where most Milan designers literally translated the gloom of the economic crisis McQueen added a murderous glint to the proceedings with aristocratic eleagance and a glossy nostalgia for a pre-Thatcherite Britain.
Sending models down the catwalk with fingerless gloves, silver-topped canes and darkened, bloodshot eyes it seemed that McQueen had gone the safe route of pairing outlandish styling with conventional clothing, but on closer inspection everything about this collection gave off a menacing whiff.
Referencing some of the most aggressive or manic male archetypes everyone from the majestic to the deranged got a look in. Skinheads’ oxblood 10 hole DMs, teddy boys’ draped jackets combined with Jack the Ripper menace and Clockwork Orange swagger for a collection that was admittedly theatrical but anchored by impeccable tailoring. Trousers were tight, and a strong upper half was emphasised with sharp suit jackets, thick coats and beefy woollens. Chainmail vests, butcher’s aprons and boxing gloves alluded to traditional facets of men in the workplace in a proudly aggressive and vital assertion of masculinity.
Jump through to watch an impressive video of the show, with thunderous music and songs by the Specials and the Stranglers, you can watch part two here.
An epic fashion row has erupted over a pair of quilted silk trousers seen on both the D&G and Armani catwalks at the Milan menswear shows.
Armani started it all by saying: “Now they copy, later they will learn.”
Then Dolce & Gabbana took it up a notch stating: “For sure we have much to learn – but certainly not from him.” They said Armani “has never been a source of inspiration for us and we stopped seeing his shows years ago”. The design duo ended it with a whopper of a statement: “As Picasso used to say – copying from others is inevitable but copying from oneself leads to sterility.”
Givenchy chose to give a presentation of their clothes at Pitti Uomo in Milan yesterday, take a look at the video to see the clothes, which consisted largely of avant-garde style traditional menswear. The collection gave off slightly post-apocalyptic vibes with fur coats and military tailoring. Trousers had oversized waistbands cinched in with rope or woven leather belts, thick soled shoes made an appearance and patterns consisted of stripes and plaid check.
From a writer’s point of view presentations are great because you can see fabrics and details up close, but I feel that they sometimes lack the impact of a catwalk show? What do you think?
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David Beckham’s possible January loan to AC Milan is big news in football but all I can think about is whether he’ll start dressing more like an Italian… hey, even James Bond, the quintessential English gent wears Brioni.
I’m hoping we’ll see pictures of him at Pitti Uomo hanging out with Kanye West and Gianni Versace. Much better than Tom Cruise as a fashion buddy anyday; L.A’s loss is Milan’s gain so fingers crossed!
Iggy Pop has, in previous seasons, been declared by designers as high-fashion inspiration. And for many valid reasons; he rocked skinny leather trousers long before Kate Moss, meddled with blood long before Angelina Jolie and played the effeminate rocker with crazy hair long before Russell Brand.
But when Brandish’s own Isabelle reported on the menswear trend of ‘Medges,’ (men’s footwear with a Wedge heel,) no-one was expecting the trend to filter down to Crocs.
As good old Oscar Wilde once mused, “fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months.” Well, there’s no time like the present!
Calvin Klein have decided to move their menswear catwalk collection to New York this season instead of Milan. The company will still present their collection to retailers in Milan this coming January but the show itself will take place on the ground floor of the company’s headquarters.
“As this is the year we have brought the Collection business back in house and will celebrate the company’s 40th anniversary, we thought this was an appropriate time to change things up a bit,” said Tom Murry, President & COO, Calvin Klein, Inc. He went on to add: “We see this as a great opportunity to support our U.S. business and retail partners and acknowledge our heritage in New York City.”
The move isn’t permanent but could be a sign that designers are getting a little concerned about retailers’ spending during the economic downturn.
It seems in fashion we always want to be at the next destination, now. So it is that we haven’t even hit August yet and some of us are already thinking ahead to what to wear in the fall. Of course, the fact that collections are shown out of sync with actual seasons doesn’t help. An extreme example I’m faced with is wanting ALL of the McQueen shoe collection from S/S10 right now.
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